Our Inlay Jewelry Process

At Hileman Inlay Jewelry, every piece is handcrafted using traditional lapidary inlay techniques refined over decades of experience. Unlike mass-produced jewelry, our inlay work is done by hand, one piece at a time, allowing for precision, durability, and truly unique designs.

This page walks you through how inlay jewelry is made and what sets our craftsmanship apart.

What Is Inlay Jewelry?

Inlay jewelry is created by embedding carefully cut stone or other materials directly into recessed channels in the metal of the jewelry. The finished surface is smooth and flush, resulting in bold patterns, vibrant color, and a comfortable fit for everyday wear.

This technique requires a high level of skill and patience, especially when working with rare or fragile materials.

Step-by-Step: How Inlay Jewelry Is Made

1. Designing the Jewelry

Each piece begins with a design that accounts for:

Metal type (silver, gold, platinum)
Ring width and profile
Inlay layout and pattern
Stone or material selection

Channels are planned with precision to ensure structural integrity and long-term wear.

2. Creating the Inlay Channels

Using specialized tools, recessed channels are created in the wax, or in some complex designs, grown on a 3D printer.
The depth, width, and shape of these channels are critical — too shallow or uneven, and durability is compromised.

This step forms the foundation of the entire piece.

3. Preparing the Inlay Materials

Inlay materials are carefully selected and prepared by hand. Depending on the design, materials may be:

Cut into small pieces with a saw
Ground precisely to size on a diamond wheel
Matched for color and pattern consistency

We work with a wide range of materials, including:

Turquoise
Fossilized dinosaur bone
Lab-created opal
Onyx, lapis, sugilite, and more

Natural variations ensure that no two pieces are ever identical.

4. Setting the Inlay by Hand

The prepared materials are placed into the channels by hand, using professional-grade bonding techniques developed specifically for inlay jewelry.

Each section of inlay is carefully picked and aligned to:

Maximize strength
Maintain clean pattern lines
Ensure long-term stability

This is one of the most time-intensive steps and where true craftsmanship matters most.

5. Curing, Shaping, and Polishing

Once the inlay is fully set in place:

The epoxy securing the inlay pieces is allowed to cure properly
The surface of the stones is shaped so the metal and inlay sit perfectly flush
The jewelry is polished to a smooth, comfortable finish

The result is a seamless surface designed to wear beautifully over time.

Why Handcrafted Inlay Matters

Inlay jewelry cannot be rushed or automated without sacrificing quality. Handcrafted inlay offers:

Greater durability when done correctly
Cleaner transitions between metal and stone
Custom color and material combinations
Repairability and refinishing over time

Mass-produced inlay often uses shortcuts that lead to cracking, stone loss, or premature failure. Our process is designed for longevity.

Made to Order, One Piece at a Time

Most of our jewelry is made to order, allowing you to:

Choose your preferred inlay material
Select metal type and ring width
Customize stone accents when applicable

Because each piece is handcrafted, slight variations are a feature — not a flaw — and part of what makes inlay jewelry special.

Repairable and Refinishable

Unlike some jewelry styles, properly made inlay jewelry can be repaired and refinished.

If an inlay becomes damaged:

Individual sections can often be replaced
The surface can be refinished to restore its original appearance

We also specialize in professional inlay jewelry repairs for pieces made elsewhere.

→ Learn more on our Inlay Jewelry Repair page

Explore Our Handmade Inlay Jewelry

From turquoise wedding bands to dinosaur bone engagement rings, every piece reflects decades of lapidary experience and a commitment to quality craftsmanship.

→ Explore our inlay jewelry collections
→ Learn how to care for inlay jewelry